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Brawn – London (Hoxton), UK

  • Sibling restaurant of Covent Garden’s hugely successful French resto, Terroirs, this little bistro follows in its footsteps as a homage to simple, seasonal, British and French peasant and homely food.
  • Starters and nibbles include saucisson, chunks of aged parmesan and anchovy cream.  Main dishes such as pan-fried wild mushrooms on chunky toast with poached duck egg yolk, and prawns with lime and chilli are sublime, and sit beside accomplished steak tartare and roasted chicken.  Classic chocolate mousse or salted caramel crêpe polish it all of very nicely.
  • There’s something of a school canteen feel about the interior and by day, the ex-warehouse lends itself well to a light, bright and airy atmosphere.  Contemporary, locally-created art adorns the white walls while the dark wood and marble bar is well manned and a nice spot to wait for a table.
  • The staff is mainly French and they really seem to know their wine list, happy to recommend a delicious pairing.

SCENE:

  • Students, trendy twenty & thirty somethings, local creatives.

TOP TIPS:

  • Booking lunch mid-week is so much easier than the evening but better still, try lunch – booked a week in advance, bien sûr – on a Sunday after a mooch through Columbia Road Flower Market.

CONTACT DETAILS:

  • Brawn – 49 Columbia Road, London E2 7RG (t: +44 (0)207 729 5692 / www.brawn.co).

THE FAT MOUSE VERDICT:

  • The Good – Top quality ingredients, inventive menu and good value.
  • The Bad – It’s so popular that evening reservations are hard to come by with spontaneous bookings impossible; servings are small; quite chilly.

MACARON RATING:
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